Stream Of Consciousness Memoir Of Cary, North Carolina, 1960-1980

by
H. Kent Craig
©1999




My first memory of Cary has to be the old Winn-Dixie store on West Chatham Street; I remember riding in a wobbly-wheeled, rusty shopping cart as my mother pushed me and it along the aisles that reeked of the odors of life, the smell of fresh produce, the daunting smell of the cleaning products section, the dry smell of the dry goods section, the anchor smell of the meat section, the metal smell that enveloped the cash registers...
...The old Winn-Dixie is now Sorrel's Paint & Wallpaper, it's parking lot virtually gone, taken in the expansion of both Harrison Avenue and West Chatham, most of Cary's citizens being mostly newcomers unaware that for the longest stretch of years that the old Winn-Dixie was "it", in a time when there wasn't a Food Lion or Harris-Teeter within a dead-cat's throw of every subdivision....
...Having gone to Miss Shelley's Private School for my first grade, because my 6th birthday was in November of 1962 and my parents didn't want me to fall behind chronologically and grade-wise with my age group, my second grade was public school, at the old but to this day still functioning Cary Elementary School at the end of Academy Street; Mrs. Fox, who lived and as far as I know still lives at the neat but slightly hidden house at the corner of East Chatham and Reedy Creek Road was my teacher; in the heydey of the "Lassie" TV series, she raised AKC Collies, her sign at her mailbox at her home still indicating so in faded letters; Mrs. Fox was the perfect second grade teacher, with the patience of some one who loved children, with a pleasant but no-nonsense demeanor, and someone of obvious high intelligence who could have taught at the graduate or post-graduate level in college but choose her "audience" because she loved kids...
...I remember when Cary had an actual "movie house", not a multi-cine-plex-monster like it has a couple/three of now; what is now Chatham Street Auto Parts on East Chatham, between Waldo and Academy, used to be the old theater....
...I remember when Kildaire Farm Road used to be a two-lane paved country lane past its intersection with Maynard Road, Maynard Road being Cary's "Outer Loop" for years before Cary Parkway was built and/or Maynard was looped around Cary too in such a loopy fashion it had to be some local who had become Transportation Planner for Cary's idea of revenge on the newcomers which were "ruining" Cary; and I remember when Cornwallis Road, the last street before Kildaire's intersection with Maynard, was Cary's eastern most boundary of development, Cornwallis leading to Pond Street which cut through from Cornwallis to Maynard, Pond Street housing my best friend growing up, Tom Robinson, of 912 Pond Street...
...My best friend before Tom, from second grade on into junior high school, was Billy Pearce, who lived on a dairy farm where the Kroger grocery store and Fist Union bank on the right on Kildaire Farms Road is now; many happy days were spent exploring the woods and hollows and weirdly different places on Billy's dairy farm; Billy also had a retarded sister, Tammy Lynn, who became the namesake of this area's premier center for humane care of the severely mentally retarded, The Tammy Lynn Center in Raleigh, because of his parents' involvement in helping to get the center established...
...Further down the road from Billy's place was the actual Kildaire Farm, a dairy farm for decades before development and this area's first PUD (Planned Unit Development), named "Kildaire Farms" by coincidence; its old barn and feed storage building stood stubbornly for years as a beacon against memory while shopping centers and new neighborhoods mushroomed up around them, some entrepreneur making them into antique shops in an effort to save them, but when the land went up in value to over $100,000 an acre, that was their death-song...
...When MacGregor Downs was built a little further down Kildaire in the early 70's, there was such a big whoop-tee-do about it, because MacGregor signaled the irrefutable beacon to all that this area was becoming what it was always destined to become because of the presence of nearby Research Triangle Park and the fact that Durham on the other side of the 'Park had and still has such an undeserved bad reputation, MacGregor semaphored with a billion foot-candle light to all that Cary was to become the highest per-capita income city in North Carolina, and that was because it became the highest concentration of scientific and technical PhD's in the States, and that was because of the nearby RTP; with it's $200,000+ lots and it's half-million dollar "starter" homes and some going over seven figures plus with the land, a time, place, and economic warpzone had been created, and a part of Long Island and/or Southern California now sat where once had sat present woods and streams and lost innocence; Gregory Poole Jr., who had made and continues to make more fortunes selling heavy equipment that are the instruments of the developers, made another fortune with his vision that became MacGregor Downs...
...Even in town, the last bits of old Cary were being swallowed up; the remnants of an old dairy long gone off West Chatham near the old town cemetery save a house that had been converted to such from its old barn and an open two-three acre patch of former pasture now overgrown with bamboo, I noticed had a bulldozer and backhoe parked at their edge, and knowing that the postage-stamp pasture now awaited its euthanasia, I rushed home, got my machete, and came back to harvest some its resident decades-old bamboo as a souvenir, a piece of which I made into a lead-filled blackjack which I still have...
...I wish I had more memories to share with those curious about Cary from the time of 1960 through 1970, but except for Triangle Forest neighborhood being developed in that time, and isolated small neighborhoods like Scottish Hills nearby to Triangle Forest, and Pirate's Cove above the Maynard Road and Walnut Street intersection and a couple more down Maynard, while Cary's momentum was starting then, the steamroller of change to come hadn't even had warmed up yet back then...
...After MacGregor Downs was built in the early 70's, Kildaire Farms Road past its intersection with Tryon Road still remained untouched; where the main entrance to Lochmere Lakeside is now, Lochmere eventually passing MacGregor in snob appeal, there's a tree in the middle of the traffic island at the entrance, and that tree used to be in the front yard of what I and the other bored adolescent youths in Cary in the early to mid 70's called "Harry's", short for "Harry's Whorehouse"...
...Harry's was an old, abandoned farm where most of the buildings, the original farmhouse, the barn, the tobacco curing shed, other buildings had remained more or less intact over the years, being vandalized a little, the windows broken out and some doors and the fireplace mantles and some Victorian wooden trim stolen, but more or less intact otherwise; in the days before Wake County passed an ordinance banning all discharge of firearms out in the county unless you owned the land or had written permission from the landowner, Harry's became our, the teen-age and early 20's youth of Cary, unofficial target range; we'd plaster paper targets to sides of the buildings and shoot away, or we'd prop up cans and such on bare window sills and try to pick them off; the main house became so totally shot-out that eventually the beams and 2x4's in the walls started to give way and it started caving in from its own weight, that and the fact that a lot of structural wood had been removed by flying lead; when developers finally took our Harry's away from us, we then migrated to a site, an abandoned and dry lake bed owned by North Carolina State University, just down the road from the Shearon Harris Nuclear Plant outside of New Hill, which was a good fifteen miles or so from Cary and Harry's; that site was actually much safer than Harry's, since you were shooting downhill into a dirtbank which had been the old dam, but it wasn't Harry's, it didn't have character or history of Harry's, you couldn't point to certain bullet holes in certain buildings and identify them as coming from so-and-so's .45-70-Government buffalo rifle or that old 7x57mm WWI Mauser that I and many other young men of Cary owned and passed around in a perpetual cycle of horse-trades...
...Just up the road, near the intersection of Kildaire and Tryon, was another old open pasture long abandoned, where there was a junk school bus that became our favorite long-range target; from a position up the slope near the road, the bus was an almost perfect range of 500 yards away, and yes, the bus came to look like something you'd see in Beirut rather than Cary N.C. over time, as thousands of rounds blasted holes in its metal skin; where that bus sat, now sits the main entrance to Wal-Mart at Crescent Commons Shopping Center...
...That does jog another couple of memories from 1960-1970; when I was school-age and we lived on Bashford Road when Bashford was still in Cary's ETJ (Extra-Territorial Jurisdiction) limits, my father was a small-game (mainly rabbit) hunter who kept a pack of beagles year-round just for hunting season in the fall and winter, but who would often take me hunting by himself, just he and I, maybe his favorite "Lady"-dog with us but oftentimes not even her; I tell this story selectively to some of Cary's newcomers that I meet from time to time and they always give me a look like "you're not that old!" or "quit kidding me!", but I swear it's the God's honest truth; when I was 7 or 8, in 1963 or 1964, before all the development in Cary also swept east towards us as well as south and west of downtown, one fall day my father and I walked the three miles or so from our house to the WPTF-AM radio towers, my father bringing his trusty Remington made under Browning patent 16 gauge shotgun, and I my trusty .22 Savage-Stevens autoloader rifle, where we proceeded to find, flush, and shoot almost an entire covey of quail, my father getting two or three but I bagging the daily limit of fifteen birds, yes, with my .22 rifle; in all modesty to my ability with weapons and in deference to the birds I bagged, they were obviously young birds and hadn't been shot at before, when they "lit" up they didn't zig and zag like an older bird than had been shot at before would have, when they took wing they'd fly in a straight line away from me if usually at a bit of angle, but it was simply a matter of timing, not anticipating a counter-feint on their part; now, the footprint of the fields which protect the WPTF-AM 680 radio towers are surrounded by new developments, new commercial property, new industrial property, and zero coveys of quail...
...Bracketed in that same time frame are also memories of hiking over from our home at the corner of Bashford Road and where E. Chatham St. in Cary and Hillsboro St. in Raleigh met to a friend of the family's old farm which she no longer worked but lived there while she commuted to a "city job" and shooting rabbits which we'd flush from a briar thicket that had grown up and around a giant oak tree near the edge of one her fallow fields; you would have to have a first-hand knowledge of the local geography of which I speak about to appreciate this point, but eventually that giant old oak tree became a corporate symbol of Cary's premier shopping center which was built atop our friend Lillie May's old farm; when they began building Cary Towne Center and began the leveling of the gently rolling hills which bespoke of a gentler and kinder time into the level playing field for mall merchants competing for part of Cary's new-found wealth, they deliberately saved that giant old oak, carving an massive dirt "island" around it in the middle of an asphalt parking lot sea, building railroad tie-bulkheads and putting up a spiked wrought-iron fence to keep citizens and me from the ground from whence I gained unbuyable childhood memories hunting with my father as an altar to the gods of conspicuous consumption; when a lightning bolt hit and finally killed the old oak a few years back, another part of my childhood died along with it, though whenever I do walk through Cary Towne Center to go to Eddie Bauer's or Victoria's Secret or to pick up a quick lunch at its Food Court, I can't help but remember that I used to hunt for memories and rabbits on that very ground where I now hunt for fashions and food...
...Another place that became an ersatz target range was the old "weigh station" on Old Apex Highway outside of Cary between Cary and Apex; when US 1 was the main north-south artery between Maine and Florida, "One" became Chatham Street in Cary and Hillsboro Street in Raleigh and vice' versa, and when US 1 was US 1, the old weigh station was working and vibrant and necessary part of the theater which was Chatham Street and US One; long abandoned, the gravel pile just behind it and the rolling hills further behind opened up to easy walking by the high-tension powerline right-of-way became a more popular place to target shoot once they bulldozed and housed-over Harry's; past the third big hill heading north from the weigh station under the powerlines was a reasonably large lake which stretched over eastward to Triangle Forest neighborhood which for reasons I'll leave to your imagination we affectionately named "Lake Ass"; an isolated lake with clean water, the time of the late 70's, common drug use among many Cary adolescents, teen-age hormones, you figure it out; "Lake Ass" is now officially en-ti-titled "Fred G. Bond Metro Park", yes, "...Metro Park", sigh...
...Just before the old weigh station, where Chatham Street turned back into US 1, was the famous Knotty Pine Motor Court; when the top speed for cars on US 1 was 45 MPH on most stretches and in the days before air-conditioning and major hotel chains locating a roomhive every few miles on multilane interstate highways, when one traveled from state to state one often stayed in places like a Knotty Pine Motor Court, if one was lucky enough to find such a nice place with window fans and individual showers and bathrooms for each room and central hotwater baseboard heating for the winter months and a decor which would cost more than a large fortune to re-create now if one would want to; every single inch of wall space in every single room was heart knotty pine wood originally cut from old-growth local pine trees, hence the name (du!), lovingly finished in a medium-tan stain which protected it and over the years brought out more and more natural luster and beauty of the wood; I knew Knotty Pine well, because my father knew the people that owned it and did their plumbing service work, and because we would often fish in the pond they owned which was right across 'One from the Motor Court; I distinctly remember when I was six or seven years old catching a giant, ancient snapping turtle, which was so large that even a piece of him wouldn't even hardly rest atop a five-gallon bucket, at the old pond; Knotty Pine Motor Court is no more, of course, as you would figure, it's been bought and sold several times in the past few years and now sells itself as offering "efficiency apartments", and the pond across the street is pretty much silted in...
...Another place of memory of Cary and its outskirts was Piney Plains Road; at basically a wide pull-off place on Piney Plains which was a dirt road that connected Walnut Street to Tryon Road along the backskirts of creeping Lochmere and Summerwinds developments eventually in the driveway of another proverbial old, abandoned farm long since gone there was nothing and there was everything; suffice to say that it sticks out in my memories because a whole lot of partying went on there, a lot of memories were impressed in the pages of my mind there...
...I'd never forgive myself if I didn't mention Gloria Ezzel; Gloria was my best friend Tom's girlfriend when I first met her, and she and I were boyfriend/girlfriend for a while but nothing ever too serious, but she's definitely part of that time and place in my life; she lived in a small, funky house on East Chatham Street not far from Cricket's Texaco, and I remember that in the winter of 1969 I first heard Steppenwolf's "Live" album on her Sears box-style recordplayer as she and Tom and I blew a little pot and snuggled together and as three true friends shared a moment of true intimacy and innocence that can never be repeated in my life again; Gloria was killed in a single car accident when she was just twenty or so, hitting a bridge abutment on a lonely country backroad at 5 A.M. one drizzly Monday morning...
...Cary's also home to my first fiance', Carolyn Robinson; I originally met Carolyn at the Flea Market at the NC State Fairgrounds on Hillsboro Street in Raleigh not too far from the house where she was selling second-hand clothes and where I gave her my Craig Plumbing Co. business card and soon after she showed up at my office one day, asking me and my father to give her a price on putting the plumbing in an old building in downtown Cary, what's now part of Ashworth Commons, where she was going to open up her "UpStairs Art Gallery"; when Carolyn first met me that Saturday at the Flea Market, it was love at first site for her to me, but it took me a while to fall in love with her; my parents, in the meanwhile, were having absolute shitfits because Carolyn also happened to be divorced, 34 years old, had three kids from her then-recently-ended marriage including a 14-year-old daughter, and rode a Harley chopper in Nancy Sinatra-style kneeboots, and there I was, an 18-year-old young man still living at home; yes, I eventually did do some plumbing for her, quit your dirty thoughts they're not flattering to you, no, we never did get married, we eventually broke up about a year after that, yes, I did exhibit some of my artwork in her gallery during that time, and yes, I did see her a couple of times after that accidentally in public, where she made quick but polite exits from my presence...
...What's left of the Cary of my childhood and adolescence?; not much, I'm afraid to say. There's still the "big woods" that is compromised mainly of the "sheep farm" (the old NC State Agricultural Research Station) and some large tracts of private land which make up about a 500-600 acre tract that's in the middle of an area bordered by Chatham Street, Maynard Road, Walnut Street, and I-40; some politicians want to build a giant, 20+ field regional soccer and sportsfield complex there, but there's many, many secrets untold that are buried on the sheepfarm land that were the byproducts of secret Cold War biological warefare research, so I don't know if they're willing to acknowledge that still more or less open but still classified secret secret about the old sheepfarm and then pay for all the soil decontamination that will cost in the millions of dollars to have the place cleaned up; the large privately owned tracts around the sheepfarm, though, well, it's just a matter of time before they're gone, Cary's already run sewer and water lines through their deep woods in anticipation of the inevitable, the inevitability of it all being as tangible as the memories of a time and place past which shouts out in my mind "never more"...





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